Best tours in Moldova: Chisinau to Tiraspol & Orheiul Vechi
I had the opportunity to visit Moldova in March 2016.
It was a fluke, really. I was in Bucharest for work and, having already explored Romania on a previous trip, I was keen to go somewhere different. Moldova is one of those places which has fascinated me for years, in part because I was never sure if I would ever get there. Now I was getting the chance.
Moldova feels very far removed from the rest of Europe. A small nation tucked away in the far south east of the continent, sandwiched between Romania and Ukraine, many people I mentioned it to hadn’t even heard of it, let alone considered going there. “What’s there?”, they would ask. No idea. That was the point of going.
Tourist attractions in Moldova are few and far between – that’s a large part of the appeal. But there are some very worthwhile tours in Moldova if you want to explore the country. The vast majority start from the capital, Chișinău, a small city which feels a little run down in a way that’s hardly surprising for the poorest country in Europe.
Moldova today feels very like provincial Russia back in the 90s. Ragged around the edges, populated by middle-aged ladies in headscarves, it has a charm which grabbed me immediately. Adding to this charm was the knowledge that I was one of very few tourists. Apart from a pair of businessmen in my large, Soviet-era hotel, I only noticed one couple apart from myself in the three days I was there.
I spent my first afternoon wandering the city centre, exploring Orthodox churches, grey parks still emerging from winter, small markets, and statues of local heroes I had never heard of. The Moldovan parliament, literally next door to my hotel, was an anachronism; heavily policed from the front (due in part to a large protest group camped outside), the rear door beside the hotel was completely unfenced and unprotected. I was later told by Moldovans that democracy is very much a token effort at the moment, elections are rigged and tensions are high.
I did, however, discover a modern side of Moldova in the form of the Tucano coffee shops. In a country where Starbucks, Costa and other western brands are conspicuous by their absence, the presence of a chain coffee house serving the sort of unusual drinks I love to try (violet latte, anyone?) had me going back three times in two days – and I still didn’t get to try everything!
I ate the first evening in the hotel restaurant, next door to what turned out to be a public speaking class. Note for future reference: this is not a good idea. It’s hard to concentrate on your guidebook when you are being deafened by the volume projected from the next room. The following morning, I set out on a pre-booked tour. As one of the only 3 tourists in Chișinău (the Moldova tourism board has some work to do!), it was hardly surprising that I was the sole foreigner on a tour that quickly swelled in numbers: myself, guide Natalia, driver Sergei and a fourth member, trainee guide Olga who tagged along for the day. We quickly struck out east from Chisinau to Tiraspol – and the breakaway republic of Transnistria.
Transnistria, Transdniester, or the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic is an oddity in a corner of Europe which is already largely unknown. It came about as a product of history: when the Moldovan SSR was formed in the days of the Soviet Union, the area chosen was a large chunk of eastern Romania, plus a sliver of land to the eastern side of the Dniester river, historically part of Ukraine. Fast forward to independence, and this little slice of Slavic land, populated by Russian speakers, suddenly found itself part of a nation which was historically and culturally closer to Romania and keen to shake off the Soviet heritage. It didn’t sit well with the Transnistrians.
Today, it is a self-declared independent republic, with its own parliament, currency, passports and border control. Recognised and supported by Russia, but not by anybody else, it is sandwiched between the Moldova it is trying to escape and Ukraine, with which relations are strained at best. Legally part of Moldova to the outside world, to visit Transnistria we nonetheless had to cross a frontier and pay for visas (no passport stamps, sadly). Past the border and we were in another world.
Transnistria is not communist, but you’d be forgiven for thinking it is. If Moldova is a step back in time, it is nothing compared to Transnistria, which has clung on to its Lenin statues, House of Soviets, roubles, and ceremonial tanks in a way that would make it a major tourist attraction if, indeed, there were any tourists. We headed straight for the capital, Tiraspol, a city of wide roads, pigeons and trolleybuses proclaiming “In the future, together with Russia”. In the market, the prices are in Transnistrian roubles, which we had to exchange with Moldovan lei at the bank, and then spend before we left because they are not recognised outside the borders of the breakaway state.
Ironically, Transnistria has most of the region’s industrial might, but anything it produces carries the words “Made in Moldova”. This extends to one of its most popular exports, Kvint brandy, and some visitors travel to Transnistria just for the brandy alone. I bought a bottle – you feel kind of obliged when you’re the only foreign visitor – and to be fair, it was well worth the investment!
Shopping complete, we took a good look around the small city centre, but the pleasures were soon exhausted. As it was still late morning, my guide (who surely deserves a degree in sales and marketing) suggested an additional trip to the Orheiul Vechi monastery complex, back in Moldova proper. With lunch thrown in, I wasn’t going to say no. We set off back to Chișinău before turning north and heading into the rural areas which make up the majority of the country. If the cities are run down, you really get an understanding of the level of poverty in Moldova when you are out in the villages. Unpaved roads and ancient tractors abound.
We stopped for our lunch at a small family-owned restaurant in the village of Orheiul Vechi, close to the monastery. The traditional food in Moldova is absolutely delicious, and we had far too much for three people to eat in one sitting. Washed down with great Moldovan wine, it was worth the price of admission alone.
Finally we set off to the monastery. Orheiul Vechi is the most popular of Moldova tourist attractions, so naturally we had the place to ourselves. The monastery consists of a church built high on a bluff, and caves, still populated by monks, built into the site of the cliff face. In the Orthodox tradition they are beautifully decorated, with an awe-inspiring view across the countryside from the open doorway. However, what made the biggest impression on me was a quiet conversation between my guide, Natalia, and the monk looking after the cave we visited. I will never know what was being said, but she was clearly following up on a spiritual problem they had discussed previously. The obvious faith and sincerity from a young, modern woman, and the comfort she felt at the monk’s words, will stay with me for some time to come.
Tours to Moldova are available through a variety of companies, most of which also offer Transnistria tours. For a list of licensed tour agencies and all the best places to visit in Moldova, check out The Travel Guide to Moldova.
Map of Chișinău, Tiraspol and Orheiul Vechi
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24 Comments
The Curious Creature
I had no idea it was the poorest country in Europe. Sounds like a very interesting place to visit.
Jill Bowdery
Absolutely fascinating… like going back in time!
Amber
I would take a bread and wine welcome over flowers any day! For being one of the poorest countries in Europe, the photos tell a different story. The capital city looks beautiful – definitely added to my travel list to try a violet latte!
Jill Bowdery
Haha me too! It’s definitely poor by European standards but it’s an incredible place to visit…
Pam
It looks like a very interesting place to explore. You got me curious on the violet latte, it’s always good to find something special on every trip.
Jill Bowdery
It was strangely good!! And a fascinating country…
Julie
What an interesting place to explore! Love that welcome! That monastery looks beautiful.
Ketki
I had never heard about this place. But as rightly pointed out by and and truly so, who are not a real traveler if you do not explore offbeat places like this one. Interesting read.
Jill Bowdery
I love exploring unusual places – and they often really need the tourist income!
Marvi
I, too, have never heard of Moldova before, but from the way you have described it, it seemed such an interesting place to visit! The location of the monastery looks great! It’s views must have been amazing to look at!
Jill Bowdery
Oh gosh, the monastery was just stunning! They have applied for world heritage status – and we had it to ourselves…
Dariel
Wow I never knew Moldova looks like that – such a great off the beaten path visit. The monastery looks beautiful. I’m sure this country must hold a really special place in all your travels.
Jill Bowdery
It really does – well worth the effort to get there. I loved it!
Anna
I have never even heard of Moldova! I’m always so interested to learn about places I have never heard of! The monastary looks beautiful! Sounds like a great trip!
Jill Bowdery
I’m so glad to have introduced everyone to Moldova! There aren’t that many unknown places left so it’s so nice to go somewhere like that…
Jean
Such a small and fascinating country. It’s long been on my list of places to go to. I’m glad that I got to see your photos
Jill Bowdery
It’s definitely worth a visit, Jean!
you.theworld.wandering
Wow such an interesting read and good on you for taking the chance and visiting Moldova! The violet coffee sounds lovely and I was just imagining the feel on the streets and the colours with women in headscarfs. I’ve travelled to Eastern Europe – Bosnia, Bulgaria, Serbia but not Moldova. Maybe a place to add to the list after all. Thanks for sharing.
Kristie – you.theworld.wandering
Jill Bowdery
Definitely worth adding to the list, especially if you like Eastern Europe. I’d suggest Romania and Moldova as a good combination as they’re culturally similar and next to each other. I flew to Moldova from Bucharest which was cheap and direct. Thanks so much got your comment!
Clazz - An Orcadian Abroad
This is fascinating!! I absolutely love your quote ““What’s there?”, they would ask. No idea. That was the point of going.” That’s true adventure! Not “oh well I saw this pretty photo on Instagram”.
I learned more in this post about Moldova than I ever knew before, and yet I’ve always wanted to go purely because they’re always totally bonkers in Eurovision! I just think “yes. That’s a country full of awesome people”. You’ve definitely just nudged it a bit higher on my list though!
Iris
Tucano is a Moldovan brand, but thanks for trying.
Jill Bowdery
Oh wow, I’m so sorry, I really don’t know where I got the Romanian bit from! That’s so much better that it’s Moldovan! I will correct it now. It was amazing!
Umberto
I am from Italy and spent a lot of days traveling Romania, Albania, Bulgaria and other eastern countries but never to Moldova. Your journey has intrigued me because I love to visit places that are not crowded and different from the usual European places. In particular, I’m curious to know in which hotel you stayed and which agency you contacted for the tour
thank you
Umberto
Jill Bowdery
Hi Umberto! I stayed at the Hotel Jolly Alon in the centre of Chisinau. The tour was booked through Viator – search for “Private Soviet Era History Tour of Transnistria from Chisinau”.