Taipei to Taroko Gorge: Taiwan’s marble mountains
I set out from Taipei early in the morning. My base in Taiwan’s capital city was in the far north of the country, but Taiwan is absurdly easy to get around. An extensive rail network takes you all over the country, but I had a specific destination in mind that morning: I was going on a day trip from Taipei to Taroko Gorge.
What is Taroko Gorge?
Taroko Gorge is one of Taiwan’s highlights, and with just cause. Lying close to the east coast of the country, the gorge slices through the mountains in a series of breathtaking valleys lined by lush sub-tropical vegetation and beautifully patterned rock faces. The mountains are made of marble, and their swirling colours line the sides of the gorge. Located close to the city of Hualien, getting to Taroko Gorge from Taipei is an easy couple of hours on the comfortable Taipei to Hualien train, the aptly-named Taroko Express.
But my day started on the coast. Joining a tour group at the Hualien train station, we set out first towards the Qingshui cliffs. On a bend in the highway, a side road heads out to a viewpoint where there is a stunning panorama, as marble cliffs drop vertically into a bright turquoise sea. Further ahead, the main road winds its way along the coast and disappears into a tunnel. Running parallel to it, perilously close to the cliff edge, is the old main road, which shows how hazardous it was to travel up this coast until comparatively recently.
Qingshui Cliffs are a regular morning stopoff, as it is at this time of day that the easterly sun bathes the cliffs in light and makes the sea sparkle in many shades of blue. As the clouds began to roll in, however, we set off again for the main destination of the day: Taroko National Park.
Navigating the park itself is pretty easy. There is really only one road, which runs from Hualien to Taroko Gorge, and then along the gorge itself in a series of bends and spectacular bridges. We stopped first at the Shakadang Trail, where a footpath runs along the edge of the gorge for about 30 minutes. The walk is spectacular, taking you past rocky overhangs and through lush trees and foliage. The Liwu River runs along the bottom of the gorge it created in a sparkling thread of silver among the marble and subtropical greenery. The walk is gentle, and provides a wonderful opportunity to examine the gorge up close.
At the end of the trail, we doubled back and returned to our starting point on one of the bridges that criss-cross the park. Soaring high above the gorge, the bridges themselves are a work of art, with each one lined with statues of lions and other motifs that give you no doubt of the Chinese heritage of the country. Moving on, however, we set off to explore more of the park. After lunch in a local restaurant, the next stop was Swallow Grotto.
Swallow Grotto is another footpath along the river’s edge, but very different from the Shakadang Trail. Running mainly parallel to the road which has been carved into the rock, the trail follows a section of the gorge which is high above the river below, taking you below rocky overhangs and natural archways. Hard hats are required to negotiate the trail, which adds a dose of humour to the occasion. But the real draw is the tiny natural caves that litter the rock face along this section of the gorge, and which are used by swallows for nesting each spring. The swirls of marble are also particularly spectacular along this section of the gorge.
Our final stop was to check out one of the temples that also dot the national park. Perched high above the river below, they are impossibly picturesque, hidden amongst the trees. We visited Changuang Sih temple for a look around, where we were one small group of foreign tourists among the many Taiwanese day trippers who had come to pay their respects. Not far away, a rope bridge crossed this section of the gorge, another popular draw, and another photogenic moment. Solid and well-secured, a trip across one of Taroko’s rope bridges is a must-do if you are not too afraid of heights.
All too soon, it was time to return to the station for the Hualien to Taipei train home. While the area could easily keep you occupied for a couple of days, a Taroko Gorge day trip from Taipei can certainly give you a good feel for the area. It makes for a spectacular day out, in the Taiwanese nature that makes the country so special.
How to make your own day trip to Taroko Gorge from Taipei
As I mentioned, I chose to join a tour group to visit Taroko Gorge. For me, this was a practical way of ensuring I saw the best sights, had someone else take responsibility for getting me back to my train on time, and had a local guide to explain the history and geology of the area as we went. Travelling solo, it also gave me a group of people to share my day with. Taipei to Taroko National Park by train takes approximately 2 hours, plus the driving time to Taroko Gorge National Park itself. Group tours set off from Hualien City and can cater to visitors staying overnight in Hualien as well as those arriving from Taipei. If your budget runs to it, private tours are also easy to find, and if you prefer a fully-organised Taroko Gorge tour from Taipei without travelling to Hualien under your own steam, there are also many options available
If you prefer to travel independently, you have two options. Firstly, you could rent a car and drive yourself (to be approached with caution: the roads are winding, narrow, and busy with other cars and tour buses). Or, secondly, you could take the local shuttle bus from Hualien station up to the park. Be aware that this bus runs once an hour and can be busy; if you are catching a train later in the day, take care to make sure you are back at the station in plenty of time. Timetables are available from the Taroko Visitor’s Centre or at www.taroko.gov.tw.
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20 Comments
Nicky
This looks amazing – and the photo of the temple with mountain mist in the background is stunning!! Thank you for sharing!
Jill Bowdery
Thanks so much, glad you liked it!
Megan Indoe
Taroko Gorge is a dream! We went about two years ago and fell in love! We didn’t make it to the coastline like you did and now we want to go back! We did our trip independently but used the bus system – which we found to be late always! We didn’t get to cross the bridge like you though! Great photos!
Jill Bowdery
Yes, I definitely felt like the tour was the best decision with the time I had. The bus is more adventurous, though! Glad you like the pics!
Cherene Saradar
Ugh I clearly need to get my ass to Taiwan. I never heard of this but now I want to go! Thanks for sharing!
Jill Bowdery
You definitely do, Taiwan is incredible! Glad you enjoyed the post!
Lauren
What a beautiful post! Adding Taiwan to the bucketlist as it’s somewhere I’ve never really researched before but it looks amazing!
Jill Bowdery
It’s definitely worth researching – it’s so easy to get around and yet there’s so much to experience!
Sarah Shumate
I don’t know what looks the best about this hike – the gorge itself, the natural caves, or that awesome bridge! I would love to see this. The coast, too – wow! I didn’t realize Taiwan was this pretty actually, which is silly since I live nearby in Singapore. I should know these things. 🙂 Will definitely put Taroko Gorge on my to-see list when we make it over to Taiwan!
Jill Bowdery
Taiwan is stunning! You should definitely visit if you’re already in Singapore. I don’t know why it’s not better known really – most of the tourists are Chinese – but all the better for those of us who make it there!
Katy
Wow! This place looks amazing! Taiwan just jumped to the top of my travel list!
Jill Bowdery
It’s gorgeous! You should definitely look into it…
Viola
The water looks so stunning! I’m so sad I didn’t get to see the east coast of Taiwan now. Maybe time for another trip back hmm…
Nina
This really does look like a great daytrip! I love exploring gorges and grottos like this one!
Christine
Taiwan looks amazing! So many people have been visiting recently and everytime I read about it and see pictures I want to book a flight!
Mike from TravelAndDestinations
The Taroko Gorge looks fantastic and I’ve now saved it to my Google Maps as a place to go! I haven’t made it to Taiwan at all yet, so will have to check out some of your other posts for ideas and inspiration!
janet
This post is so beautiful. Cant wait to be in Taiwan next month. Our travel agency does not offer this destination… So I plan to add this stunning place. Do you have a more detailed diy on how to get to this place please? Thank you!
Jill Bowdery
There are loads of companies offering tours, or you could take a look online at https://www.taroko.gov.tw/en. There are maps and lots of suggested routes if you want to travel independently. If you are staying in Taipei like I was, you will find that most tour companies schedule their departure to coincide with the train’s arrival time, so it works seamlessly. I travelled with Eye Travel Taiwan and just booked the train myself. Personally, I think the tour is the easiest option unless you have a lot of time. I’m sure you will love it either way, though!
Alexandra Wrigley
I’ve always have wanted to visit Taiwan. Knowing that there are day group trips that are reasonably priced is great. I will be travelling solo and didn’t know how accessible it would be. What time of year did you go? Did you do much hiking in the gorge? What sort of level of fitness would you recommend?
Jill Bowdery
Hi Alex! I was there in March and did a couple of short hikes. There’s something for everyone but you don’t need to be super fit. There are short, flat walks and more challenging ones – a bit of everything. Because of time, the day tours tend not to tackle anything too adventurous, though.